The trip started poorly. We didn't arrive in the valley until sunset because we took the "scenic" route, US-95, through central Nevada. As we we drove through the valley, I was surprised to see the number of people taking photos of the orange, setting sun because it looked like one of those pathetic Los Angeles smoggy sunsets. We checked in at the Furnace Creek Ranch, got some dinner and went to bed.
In the morning we headed off for Badwater, the "official lowest point in the Western Hemisphere," and it was exactly what I expected: a flat, stark, alkali bed. I was ready to check this place off my list of National Parks and get out of there. But then we went off to explore the rest of Death Valley.
From the mineral colors of Artist's Palette to the strangely eroded rocks of Zabriskie Point overlooking the valley, to the massive sand dunes of Indian Wells, it was one extraordinary sight after another. Even the walking trails led to amazing sights. Golden Canyon is noted for its natural bridges but after a little while you realize you are walking on an overturned and destroyed road bed - all that is left of the asphalt road that used to go up there before a particularly violent storm. Mosaic Canyon is the result of similar storms and as you look at the small rocks and pebbles left embedded in dried mud higher than your head you realize where the canyon name came from. And then as we drove up the road, we saw one of the giant dust devils form out in the middle of the valley and travel at its stately pace to the south.
When we returned to Furnace Creek Ranch, we realized we were staying in a true oasis in this dry desert with giant palm trees and wildlife to match. The ravens were as big as eagles and the coyotes were right out of central casting. One crossed the road in front of us turning his head to glare but never breaking stride as he continued his way out into the desert.
The man-made parts of Death Valley may have there attraction for some. Furnace Creek Inn is certainly quite elegant and the twenty-mule teams and Scotty's Castle are known world-wide, but they end up being almost intrusive. Death Valley is it's own place and really doesn't need them.
When we left, we headed west over the Panamint range and the amazing sights continued as we drove through a forest of Joshua Pines and then finally on to US 395 and on to Lone Pine. We thought about ending our trip by going from the lowest point to one of the highest, Mt Whitney, but fortunately the portal road was still closed so we headed home.
To see photos from this trip, go to:
Death Valley 2008
Death Valley 2008
