North Rim Grand Canyon NP and Rainbow Bridge NM

 Fall 2016

The arid southwest gets very wet when a hurricane makes landfall on Baja California. When we stopped at Mesquite, NV, the thermometer briefly reached 100° and the humidity was less than 10%, but by the time we got to the North Rim, the rain was coming down so hard that the sidewalks were flooded with the runoff from the Lodge roof and the Grand Canyon was hidden behind layers of thick clouds.

Fortunately, as the weather cleared, we quickly had Ansel Adams' views from an entirely new perspective. The southern edge of the Kaibab Plateau finally allows the Colorado River to begin its western flow and the North Rim Lodge sits high above the river at this point on the plateau--1000 feet higher than the South Rim.

Grand Canyon with South Rim Beyond

The Glen Canyon Dam keeps the Colorado River itself from cutting any deeper but the side streams continue their work. The Transept and Bright Angel Creek continue to cut deeply creating some great close-up canyon views. And when the weather cleared we could see across the 10 mile width of the Grand Canyon. With binoculars we could just make out El Tovar Lodge and the steep portion of Bright Angel Trail leading to Phantom Ranch.

When the Grand Canyon Lodge was first built it provided rooms, but today after being rebuilt following the 1932 fire, it is just a day lodge and overnight lodging is provided in nearby rustic cabins. Ours was advertised as having a partial canyon view, but the clouds took care of that for most of our stay. Nevertheless, the weather cleared enough for us to hike the easy Transept Trail and we saw the three best-known of the North Rim fauna.

Common mule deer were all along the trail and one kindly posed for a photo. And while we have been to a number of places that were wild turkey habitats, this was our first time actually seeing any. A 'rafter' of turkeys (I would have guessed 'flock' and I have heard 'gobble') had crossed the road in front of us earlier, moving like long-legged chickens and looking exactly like the bourbon logo.

But the most remarkable sighting was a Kaibab Squirrel. The visitors' center had a display about these creatures which are unique to the Kaibab Plateau and they are described as having tufted ears and a white tail. Now, I have seen  white-mantled squirrels and I assumed that this white tail would be the same light gray color, so when one ran through the woods in front of us with a tail that was nearly pure white, I was quite pleasantly surprised.

Vermillion Cliffs and Cliff Dwellings

The road from the Grand Canyon Lodge to Page, AZ and the Glen Canyon Dam is a long journey along the base of the Vermillion Cliffs. This is a National Monument, but there isn't a visitor's center or other natural stopping point, so when we saw signs for Cliff Dwellings, we decided to take a look.

Most petroglyph sites have signs prohibiting graffiti, probably because people recognize graffiti even if it is of the ancient variety, so why not add something for the future. I was reminded of this at this Cliff Dwelling site.

These weren't truly cliff structures but strange brickwork surrounding fallen boulders. It turns out these cliff dwellings are quite modern, built by a Mormon family when their car broke down during a journey in 1927 and they decided to stay.

Modern Cliff Dwellings

Glen Canyon Dam and the Colorado River

Hoover Dam and Glen Canyon Dam are similar in size. Hoover is just 17 feet taller and Lake Mead has only a slightly greater capacity than Lake Powell. Of course both are considerably below capacity due to the continuing drought. The primary difference is that the two dams were built 30 years apart and construction techniques changed dramatically during those years and the older Hoover Dam required nearly twice as many workers.

Glen Canyon Dam

We took a raft trip from the base of the Glen Canyon Dam and while it is possible to raft all the way down the Colorado to Lake Mead and the Hoover Dam, few people actually combine flatwater and whitewater rafting. Flatwater rafting ends at Lee's Ferry where the Paria Riffle gives a first hint of the rapids to come and most Grand Canyon rafting begins there.

To get to our rafts we were driven through a two mile tunnel down 500 feet to the base of the dam, but it wasn't until we were beneath a river overlook that we realized just how deep the canyon really is. Our guide pointed to specks at the top of the canyon and when we looked closely we could see these were people risking a horrible death to get a glimpse of us floating down the river.

Cheyenne - Our Navajo River Guide

Rainbow Bridge National Monument

From Page we drove across the dam bridge north to Wahweap Marina where we boarded the Canyon Explorer for a two hour, 50 mile trip up Lake Powell to the National Monument. Because of the drought, the bridge is a mile and a quarter hike from the floating dock. When the lake is near capacity, there is only a short, easy walk, but before the dam was built, there was a strenuous 7 mile hike from the canyon base, so I'm not complaining.

Although the canyon entrance to the floating dock is far too narrow for a houseboat, smaller private boats can tie up at the floating dock and explore the area. And a Ranger came in on a Zodiac from the NPS station at Dangling Rope Marina and gave us a presentation about the monument.

Wahweap Marina Houseboats

I was curious as to why this particular arch receives so much attention. Arches occur naturally as part of the erosion in this part of the country. Natural Bridges National Monument has three relatively well-known bridges and Arches National Park is full of arches. Rainbow Bridge is neither the tallest nor the longest (two arches in Utah have greater spans and one bridge in Chad and two in China are taller and longer).

But how this one became a National Monument is a fascinating story.

Rainbow Bridge is a true natural bridge, a type of arch that bridges a river or stream which was instrumental in its development. Native Americans have known about the bridge for quite a long time (although 'centuries' seems an exaggeration since there is no evidence that the Ancient Puebloans were aware of it). The bridge was given an Indian name meaning "rainbow turned to stone", but no one is sure if was the Paiutes or the Navajos who named it, and now, five different tribes claim it as their sacred site.

Word about Rainbow Bridge circulated among mountain men, prospectors, and settlers throughout the 1800's and some were assumed to have actually seen it. But suddenly, in 1909, two different expeditions set out to locate it. Each group was seeking to be the first 'literate whites' (now there's a phrase I've never encountered before) to reach this site which was being described as 'legendary'. The rivalry became a little unpleasant but in a bit of an anti-climax, they joined forces and when they reached the remote site the two leaders walked under the bridge together. Just a few months later President Taft designated it a National Monument and celebrities such as Zane Grey and Theodore Roosevelt were soon making the journey to see it.

It all makes for a somewhat ludicrous story, but, in truth, as I approached and got my first glimpse of the monument, I immediately realized it transcends any silliness about it. Rainbow Bridge is an arresting sight, sculpted from solid rock with a height of 290 feet. But that isn't nearly as telling as the fact that at its apex it's 42 feet thick and 33 feet wide. It is a massive structure that has a very real majesty to it. I'm glad I got to see it.

 

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Our ride home took us completely across Nevada from East to West through the center of the state. I have read that Nevada is the most mountainous of the contiguous states and this trip confirmed it. Up over winding passes and back down into the flat basin become a real déjà vu experience.

We also traveled the entire length of the Extraterrestrial Highway (NV 375) which passes just north of Area 51. The only strange things we saw were the Ale Inn at the eastern end (which has a statue of an alien on its roof and a very bad pun for a name) and the tiny town of Rachel, NV, which caters to UFO buffs with souvenirs and annual events.

NDOT has posted a sign at about the midpoint warning motorists to "Watch for Low Flying Aircraft." The official reason for the sign is that Nellis Air Force Base conducts exercises in the area, but those in the know are watching for other things.

For more photos, go to: Grand Canyon/Rainbow Bridge

Mt. Rainier National Park

Summer 2016

Mt. Rainier, in Washington state, is the tallest peak in the volcanic Cascade Range that extends from British Columbia to Northern California. We visited in late June and the roads to the Sunrise section on the east and the rainforest in the northwest were still closed due to snow, but the mountain is so large that there was still a lot to see.

At 14,411 ft. and sitting alone, Mt. Rainier is easily seen and unmistakable from as far away as Canada and Oregon (Mt Whitney is the exact opposite, hidden as it is among similar peaks). On clear days, the mountain makes a dramatic background to Seattle, but it is often hidden in clouds--like most tall, stand-alone peaks, Mt. Rainier "makes its own weather".

Rainier's height and mass can be appreciated when you consider that it has three separate summits, two summit craters, and 27 named glaciers that are the source for six major rivers. As an active volcano, it presents a very real threat to Seattle, which is only 54 miles away, but what we saw on our visit were clear views of a beautiful place.

The Paradise Inn, built in 1916, sits just below the tree line and is the best known lodging in the park, but at a slightly lower elevation is the unpretentious National Park Inn, originally built in 1906, considered to be one of the finest examples of National Park Service Rustic Architecture (Parkitecture). The entire Longmire Historic District seemed quite familiar since this was the basis for our own cabin remodel project.

At these lower elevations are the hot springs, a rain forest, and old growth forests including the Grove of the Patriarchs. On our hike of the Grove trail we crossed the river on a swaying, bouncing bridge and saw specimens of 200 foot tall Douglas firs and red cedars, some over 1000 years old.

**Mt Hood
Summer skiing on the Palmer Snow Field is famous world-wide, but it is the Timberline Lodge that made that possible. The lodge was the first major project of the WPA and President Roosevelt personally dedicated the building in 1937.

The money for the project went primarily to hire workers so local and recycled wood, rock and other materials were used in construction--the fireplace base and screen were fashioned from curved railroad tracks and old tire chains, and the wool used to make drapes and rugs on site was recovered from surplus WWI army uniforms.

Unique interior design features are everywhere throughout the lodge and were coordinated through the Federal Art Project. My personal favorite was a carving above one of the doors: 

Cougar Resting in Forest, Florence Thomas, wood relief, 1936-1937

**Mt. St. Helens
In January 1980, Mt. St. Helens was a little-know, nondescript mountain in the Cascades owned by the Burlington Railroad and used primarily for lumber operations. Locals were more familiar with the namesake lodge at nearby Spirit Lake run by Harry R. Truman. But, the whole world learned of Mt. St. Helens on May 18th, 1980.

The eruption of Mt. St. Helens was not unexpected. Beginning in March, earthquake activity caused steam venting and a bulge appeared in April. But no one expected the magnitude of the eruption.

There were three main parts to the eruption. First, the side of the mountain blew out creating the largest avalanche and landslide in recorded history. This massive lahar--volcanic material, surface rock, and melted snow and ice all mixed to a consistency of wet cement--poured out in unimaginable quantities and sped toward Johnston Ridge which diverted it down the Toutle River creating massive flooding, destroying trees, plants, bridges and buildings in its path.

The lahar was followed immediately by a blast of hot volcanic gas with a force calculated at 1600 times greater than Hiroshima. Everything within a 10 mile radius was completely destroyed and trees within a 20 mile radius were described as "sheared like a mown lawn". There was no chance Johnson Ridge could divert this.

Finally, an ash cloud began erupting, reaching 15 miles high, sending ash north and east and into the jet stream for nine hours. In nearby Yakima, Washington there was daytime darkness as ash fell like some perverse, deep snowfall that didn't melt.

Volcanic activity continued until 1991 and then, after a pause, began again in 2004 with another series of lesser eruptions that continued until 2008 when the eruption was declared officially ended. 

Mt St Helens - Before and After -- Note Silver Lake in Foreground Which Doubled in Volume

Today, over 36 years after the initial eruption, the damage is still quite evident in the Toutle River basin, but a Visitors' Center has been built on Johnston Ridge and recovery has begun. Today, wildflowers are flourishing around the stumps of trees destroyed in the blast.

 Wildflowers and Stumps on Johnston Ridge

**Lewis and Clark National Historical Park
There are over 400 units managed by the National Park Service, but only 58 National Parks. My leather-bound pocket guide to the National Parks covers all of the National Parks and only the National Parks, with one exception. Despite the fact that there are 41 other Historical Parks, this one, and only this one, is included. Strange, but here we are.

Fort Clatsop was built near the mouth of the Columbia River and marks the far point of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. It was a simple structure consisting of two buildings surrounded by log walls. The Corps of Discovery only used the fort for three months before beginning the return journey east and they presented the still useful fort to the chief of Clatsops as a 'thank you'.

In 1955 the fort was reconstructed as part of the effort that designated the site as the Fort Clatsop National Memorial in 1958. This replica burned in 2005 and the current re-creation--a more accurate representation--was completed in 2006.

Fort Clatsop Re-Creation

**Columbia River Dams
I had naively assumed that when Lewis and Clark entered the Columbia River from the Snake, they simply floated down to the ocean, the hard part of their journey over. And it was relatively easy until the river entered the Columbia Gorge.

When the expedition reached the gorge, William Clark surveyed the Celilo Falls and The Dalles rapids, and determined to shoot the narrows despite their fury. Sending most of the equipment and all of the valuables on a long portage, he made the effort. The story goes that hundreds of Indians watched from the cliffs above and were amazed when the explorers actually survived.

Today there are 14 hydroelectric dams over the length of the Columbia but the two dams that actually made the Columbia fully navigable are The Dalles (French for slabs) and the Bonneville. Both are Corps of Engineer dams, so, of course we had to visit.

The Bonneville is certainly the more interesting. A second power plant was added to the Bonneville in 1981 and it is of a typical modern industrial design, but the original power plant was completed in 1937 to fulfill a campaign promise by FDR.The result then was a perfect blend of industry and art, and the art deco features are highlighted during the tour. Perhaps even more interesting is a rejected proposal that would have had, among other oddities, nude water nymphs perched on the generator housings.

Today, the Columbia Gorge is a calm waterway between the two dams. It's a major vacation and recreation area, Portland's equivalent of Lake Tahoe with skiing at Mt Hood and wine tasting in the hills.

We boarded a big stern-wheeler to tour the river which was filled with sail-boarders and wind surfers every afternoon when the wind picked up. Historic Oregon Route 30 still exists for a short distance along the river where there are a number of well-known waterfalls, including Multnomah, Bridal Veil (how unique), Wahkeena Falls, and Latourell Falls. In addition, there is Vista House, built in 1916 well before the present dams, sitting high with commanding views both up- and down-river.

Multnomah Falls and Vista House

**Mount Hood Railroad
This short line railroad follows the Hood River from the Columbia up to Odell, Oregon. I thought it might have been a ski train at some point, but it was always a freight line and despite the growth of trucking, they still carry freight two days a week. As we rode through the cherry and pear orchards, we saw the need for this service. Mount Hood Railroad is only one of a few U.S. railroads that uses a switchback to make a steep hill climb--Roaring Camp in Santa Cruz is another.

**Traveling the West
We continued our road adventures with this drive to Oregon and Washington state. Our route took us deep into the heart of the Cascades which could never be mistaken for the Sierras. Besides the fact that these are volcanoes, I'm sure it's due to the amount of rain they get. 

We spent two travel nights in Oregon. On the way north, we stayed in Eugene, home to Oregon State University (or judging by the signage, Phil Knight's Nike University). Actually, this seemed a very friendly college town and the university itself dates back to 1868. The place was busier than we expected probably because we didn't know they were in the midst of track and field Olympic trials.

On our return, we stayed a night in Klamath Falls, stopping for lunch in Bend, Oregon.  Bend is always included in lists of "Best Places to Retire." We arrived there on a Monday afternoon and can verify that the place is full of active retirees as well as a great numbers of college students. For a town out in the middle of nowhere, it was a very lively place.

Wildlife was a bit sparse on this trip. We saw a small herd of pronghorn in northern California and a bald eagle perched on a pole looking over Upper Klamath Lake in southern Oregon and lots of fish at the fish ladders on the Columbia. When our GPS unit took us on an adventure through the Oregon forest, we kept an eye out for Bigfoot, but all we saw was Bambi, pogo-sticking down the road before veering off into the woods.

 For more pictures see: Mt. Rainier Trip Photos

Sedona Arizona

Spring 2016

Sedona, even more so than Niagara Falls and Lake Tahoe, really should be a national park. It sits 2500 feet lower than the southern rim of the Colorado Plateau and its unique red rock color is the result of individual grains of sand being coated with rusted hematite before being compressed into the sandstone layer. Erosion has created from this one of the most famous landscapes in Arizona.  

Room with a view

Sedona Sunset

For those who follow New Age practice, Sedona was a major site of 1987's Harmonic Convergence and has long been known as the location of at least four spiritual vortexes. (While these are claimed to be something more than the mundane, scientific "vortices" of fluid dynamics, it would have been interesting to hear a Ranger Naturalist's presentation on this. Aliens might have been involved, but let's not go there.) Sedona is also the gateway to Oak Creek Canyon, known for Sinaguan ruins of the Ancient Puebloans including Montezuma's Castle.
 
There are a number of off-road tours to choose from here. Some focus on the New Age aspects, others on hair-raising rides up and down narrow cliffsides, and the most popular ones that climb up to the Mogollon Rim of the Colorado Plateau. You can try to drive your own vehicle up that trail or rent a jeep or dune buggy. You can also opt for the famous pink jeep tours or pick from several other operators, but since we had never ridden in an original Humvee, that was our choice. That thing was really built for rough terrain and the ride was great fun even though they wouldn't let me drive.

  

Montezuma's Castle National Monument
If you actually follow Oak Creek itself out of Sedona you would soon enough see a fortress built into the side of a cliff above the creek. Spanish explorers named it Montezuma's Castle under the mistaken assumption that it had to be part of the Aztec empire. The structure is even larger than it looks based on a model displayed on the trail that shows six levels behind the walls, Unfortunately, actual tours of the structure were halted in 1951.

Montezuma's Castle

Montezuma's Well

Oak Creek also passes Montezuma's Well, which is really misnamed since it's not a well but a limestone sinkhole with a continuous flow of fresh water. Even today, it remains guarded by its own cliff structure.

Verde Canyon Railroad
Oak Creek feeds into the Verde River south of Verde Canyon where we rode the short line railroad that up until the 1980s serviced one of the world's richest copper mines. The depot is located in Clarksdale, not far from Jerome, AZ, a National Historic Landmark similar to Virginia City, NV.

The train ride itself was a real treat. The canyon was as impressive as we expected but I didn't realize that this was such a bald eagle habitat. There were two nests along the train tracks (we could glimpse activity in one of them in the trees through the thickening spring growth) and, at Montezuma's Castle, we watched a bald eagle riding the thermals in the sky above us.

 

Spring Training
We watched the Giants work out at Scottsdale Stadium (amazingly it was free), and Nancy worked hard to get Bruce Bochy's autograph. Botch doesn't like to give out autographs, but when he saw Nancy waving the book he wrote about his favorite walks, you could see his mind trying to figure a way to give her one without giving one to anyone else. After a few false starts, he finally gave up and came over to the feeding frenzy of autograph seekers. He signed two, took a pen from a third, signed Nancy's book, thanked her, and then to the others said, "That's enough, gotta go." It made me laugh.

 

This trip was really about seeing the Giants "on-the-road" at some of the other spring training facilities. Salt River Fields at the Talking Stick Indian Reservation is home to the Rockies and the local Diamondbacks, so we weren't really surprised at the size of the place or the crowd that was there for the Giants-Diamondbacks night game.

However, we were a little surprised at the Peoria Sports Complex, home to the Padres and Mariners. We went to an afternoon Giants-Padres game and took our usual 6th inning tour of the stadium. Out behind center field we found an open-air Hooters complete with Hooters girls in their typical outfits and a couple of young ladies in tight black dresses and full make-up flirting with guys sitting at the bar. Spring Training has always had a Vegas vibe to it (golf, ballgame, bar hopping), but this did seem a little excessive.

Touring the West
This trip marks the beginning of our plan to tour the country only by car - no more flying. So we drove to Arizona and back. It was a long drive, but forests of saguaro cactus, wild burrows, Death Valley wildflowers, and drone landings at Creech AFB kept things from ever being boring. Stops along the way included an original Route 66 restaurant, Lake Havasu's London Bridge, Bellagio's buffet in Las Vegas, and, of course, Eric Schat's Bakkery in Bishop, CA. All in all, a really fun trip.

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Google is killing Picasa and I have to learn how to use Google Pictures. In the meantime, here is a link to some more pictures:
Sedona Trip Pictures